We had Christmas dinner with Ateeq's family in Ranthambore, or actually, a village just outside of Ranthambore. What a meal! His wife and mother fed us "Grandma Holland Style." They stuffed us. Mutton kebabs, chicken curries, mutton curries and biryanis and...palak paneer! (Think of creamed spinach with fried chunks of fried ricotta cheese - my favorite Indian dish.) All dishes were wonderful, home-cooked, from scratch and bottomless. I stopped short of taking the last of the palak paneer on its first passing. Ateeq's wife, Nilu, laughed. It reappeared refilled twice that night and would have a third time had I not protested that I had no ability to eat any more. Bread operated the same way - fresh baked and replaced before it could get cold.
As amazing as the food was, the most significant feature of the evening was the warmth of our welcome. Ateeq's entire family (less his brother, who was also leading a tour group) greeted us as if we were old friends. Nilu gave Lindsay and my mother fabric for traditional North Indian salwar kurtas. I scratched my head briefly and wondered, "How do we convert this beautiful fabric into garments?" The family's tailor arrived ten minutes later to take their measurements and answer my question. Their garments were ready the next evening.
I will delve into observations and opinions on the role of religion in India in a later entry, but for now I will just say that I will never forget having Christmas dinner with a Muslim family in a Hindu country.
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