I love bike shopping, perhaps even more than bike buying. Below are tips I recently share with a friend in the market for a new road bike. It's the synthesis of key lessons I've learned buying bikes over the past fifteen years. Hope it's useful...
The most important factors in picking a bike are:
#1 -> Fit. This is 5x as important as all other factors combined. A $10K bike that doesn't fit you will make you miserable. A good bike shop will spend some time taking your measurements before they even select a bike for you to test ride. This is a ROM sizing to determine what size frame(s) you should consider. Once you select the bike you want to buy, you should expect a formal, comprehensive fitting. These usually take at least an hour and involve adjusting and swapping out various parts to ensure you are optimally aligned with your bike. When purchased after-market, they cost at least $100 for the service alone. A good bike shop will include it with the purchase of the bike. Also good to do this at time of purchase b/c the shop will generally swap in/out comparable parts of different sizes (eg. stems, bars, seat posts) for no cost.
#2 -> Feel. Every bike has a different feel based on multiple factors. Below are some general insights, but nothing replaces test riding them. Given you budget, there are a LOT of good bikes out there. I recommend test riding at least 4 bikes (at multiple shops) before picking one. If you've never ridden a bike of this level before, you'll love the first one you ride. because it is so superior to anything else you've ridden. Use this as a baseline, and see if others can top it. You'll know when you find your bike. Mine spoke to me when I met her in 2003. She said, "Let's GO!"
Test Ride Tips
-Go for at least a 10-20 minute ride that has flats, hills, descents. Most shops have recommended routes
-Ask the shop to inflate the tires to target pressure before your ride, usually 110-120 psi. This is important to getting a consistent read of how a bike feels. If you ride a bike with tires at 80psi, it will feel smoother than it actually is. If a shop gives you a funny look for insisting on this, I wouldn't buy from them.
Frames
-Carbon - this is my favorite, and at your price range there are lots of quality options available. Carbon offers a great balance of light weight, smooth ride and responsiveness. My go-to bike is a carbon Kestrel Talon.
-Steel - this is my second favorite. My back up bike (my first road bike) is a steel frame Schwin. Steel offers a very smooth ride.However, it is less popular these days as carbon become more affordable. Tends to be reserved for entry level bikes...and very high end custom bikes -> http://www.steelmancycles.com/
-Aluminum - popular material that is very light and responsive...but tends to be a rougher ride than carbon or steel. Still there are lots of high quality aluminum bikes out there. Lindsay adores her aluminum Cervelo P2K.
-Titanium - don't test ride one of these unless you are comfortable with the price tag. People I know that ride ti bikes swear by them. I've never ridden one b/c I know I can't afford it, so I don't want to know.
Components
-You should expect Shimano Ultegra or Campagnolo Chorus at this price level. The next steps up are Shimano Dura Ace or Campagnolo Record, but these add at least $1K to the bike and are the UE of cycling
-Gears - you'll likely get a double-chain ring up front with 10 speeds in the back. Tell them you are planning to ride lots of hills and want a cassette (back gears) fit for climbing. Largest cog should have 27-28 teeth.
Brands
-Giant - lots to offer
-Trek - one of the original carbon bike makers. Ride several of these.
-Cannonade - lots of models. Mostly aluminum. Very reputable
-Bianchi - very established Italian bike. Make some very nice steel frames.
-Calfee - an elite carbon bike maker. Entry level models should be in your budget range and are excellent bikes. They are the Aston Martin of bikes. Refined and smooth as butter. Worth finding a dealer near you to test one our. I almost bought a Calfee 10 years ago, but then I test rode my Kestrel Talon
-Kestrel - Santa Cruz based carbon bike specialists. I picked my Talon over a Calfee I test rode the same day because in addition to being smooth, she had more fire. Maserati to Calfee's Aston Martin. Amazed to see online that they are selling these with Shimano 105 components these days (mid-range). If you ride a Kestrel, look for Ultegra.
Accessories
-If you are shopping for this level of bike, you should plan to spend ~ $500 on accessories as well
-Pedals - bikes at this level don't include pedals. Riders tend to have their own POV on pedals and wand to specify. I use Look pedals. Lindsay uses Shimano Dura Ace (aka The Lance Pedal). If I were starting over (and had not already built my system around Look pedals), I would buy Shimano Dura Ace pedals ($200). Shimano Ultegra pedals ($140) could be an acceptable substitute. Speed Play is another popular and good brand.
-Shoes - Expect to spend $150-$200 here. Don't skimp on shoes and pedals. These are to cycling what boots and bindings are to skiing -> the most critical connection point between you and your bike.
-Gloves - Protect your hands. I prefer long finger gloves year round as they offer better protection...esp. when cleaning glass shards off my wheels while rolling.
-Spares - tubes, tires, cleats. I'd buy back ups when you buy the bike. Otherwise, when something breaks you have to go back to the shop...and risk missing that day's ride.
-Helmet - assuming you have one already, but you may want to optimize for a light weight, well ventilated one. Giro and Bell are best brands. Nothing < $100 / lots available between $100-150
-Accessories are where bike shops make their money. They make little margin on bikes, so don't expect much price flexibility. A good bike shop wants you to fall in love with the sport and come back to them for all of your accessory and maintenance needs. (BTW - tuning and adjustments for a bike you buy from them should be free for at least 1 year.)
